64 Degrees
Brighton, East Sussex
If you want the full experience at this intimate, modern 'tasting menu' restaurant tucked away in Brighton's famous Lanes, make sure you ask for a seat at the counter where you can watch the chefs at work. Elbow space might be at a premium but at least you won't feel left out of the action; alternatively, you may seated at one of the tables in the adjacent dining area. Eating here is 'always a memorable experience' and our meal was no exception, from the the opening flurry of ‘snacks’ that included a beautifully made and intensely flavoured cep tartlet to a satisfyingly rich final dessert of dark Guanaja chocolate and olive-oil ganache with blood orange sorbet. There were plenty of modish Asian influences along the way, with prawn wonton served in a sesame-flavoured dashi broth and the restaurant’s signature slow-cooked egg yolk. Foraged elements were present and correct, sea kale perhaps, accompanying a single perfectly seared scallop and served with a bright, refreshing lemongrass sauce and grapes. Although there's just one nine-course tasting menu (with vegetarian, vegan and pescatarian versions), there is an either/or choice for the last two savoury courses. These slightly larger ‘mains’ add a pleasing crescendo to an experience that can sometimes be lacking in tasting menu-style dining. The front-of-house team are charming and friendly. The short wine list of some 22 bins, chosen by locally based wine expert and TV presenter Tom Surgey, puts the emphasis on small producers and some lesser-known grape varieties; those in search of the reassuringly familiar may be disappointed.
Dining Information:
Counter seating, Credit card required, Deposit required
53 Meeting House Lane, Brighton, East Sussex BN1 1HB
01273 770115
