Barrafina Borough Yards
Borough, London
* Francisco Jose Torrico has been appointed executive chef, following the departure of Angel Zapata Martin. Watch for a new review coming soon.*
While the popularity of other London tapas bars has waxed and waned, Barrafina has remained a standard-bearer. This, the fifth iteration of the group, launched in summer 2022 and is set within a Victorian railway arch at Borough Yards, a new development bordering Borough Market. It’s in good company, with other Harts Group eateries nearby, including the El Pastor taqueria on Stoney Street, their Parrillan grill restaurant next door, and an entrance to Bar Daskal (a Spanish wine, sherry and cocktail bar) at the back. This place, however, is all about counter-top dining. From the long marble bar with its fixed stools, you can watch the chefs prep while you scan the placemat menu of para picar (nibbles), seafood, tortilla, meat, vegetables and desserts. You might just fancy a chilled manzanilla or a bright Albariño and a couple of croquetas, some Padrón peppers and their famed tortilla, but it would be a shame not to branch out and try something more innovative from the chalked-up specials board – perhaps calçots with romesco, or torreznos (fried pork snacks) given heft with a scattering of fried jalapeño and shallots, or perhaps a caldereta (stew). At inspection, a daily special of plaice in a light-as-air batter was superb. Finish with the delectable fried Catalan bunyols (doughnuts). As with most Barrafinas (except Dean Street), counter seats are bookable, with a few places held back for walk-ins; there are high-top tables, too, for larger groups. The drinks list (sherry, cava and wine) leans heavily on Spanish grapes; otherwise, Estrella beer is on tap.
Dining Information:
Private dining room, Counter seating
