Blacklock Soho
Soho, London
Named after the vintage Blacklock irons used to grill its ‘skinny chops’, the original branch of this meat-loving mini chain channels the spirit of London’s old chophouses but gives the whole idea a trendy spin. It may be housed in a Soho basement once occupied by a brothel and a notorious lap-dancing club, but everything is above board these days: dark panelling, parquet floors and bare wooden tables set the scene for a menu that positively revels in animal protein. Eagle-eyed readers will spot that the meat comes from butcher Philp Warren’s farm in Cornwall, which guarantees naturally reared, grass-fed quality – whether we’re talking about lamb T-bones, pork tomahawk or bone-in sirloins. The best deal is the £25 ‘all in’ sharing offer, which brings a stack of beef, pork and lamb piled high on herb-flecked chargrilled flatbreads. That said, some of the best things are the supporting acts: ‘pre-chop bites’ such as potted meats with kimchi; sides including sweet potatoes roasted in ash for 10 hours, and all sorts of extras – from chilli hollandaise and garlic marrow spread to the near-legendary Blacklock gravy served in old-fashioned ‘boats’. Lunch brings pork belly buns and steak sarnies, while Sunday is reserved for Blacklock’s’ sell-out roasts. Keep your spirits up by summoning the cocktail trolley or picking from the list of own-label beers and non-spendy wines (some on tap).
