Chalk
Washington, West Sussex
Chef Tom Kemble is best known for his refined cooking at Bonhams in London and at The Pass at South Lodge Hotel. However, his latest appointment as head chef of Wiston Estate Winery's on-site restaurant is less fine dining and more farm dining. Situated in a restored 18th-century threshing barn and making use of ingredients from a walled kitchen garden on the estate, Chalk's short, regularly changing menu celebrates seasonal produce in a mostly unadorned fashion. The attractive, light-filled dining room's soaring, exposed roof space is hung with pendant lamps, while the whitewashed walls are decorated with original artworks – a pleasing backdrop for some equally pleasing food. Superlative house-baked focaccia with a crackling, crisp crust was served with good butter, while a textbook chicken liver parfait was given local provenance with a layer of jelly made from Wiston’s rosé wine and elderflower – thick slabs of excellent toasted brioche provided the ballast, although we would have liked more parfait. A similarly straightforward main course was equally satisfying: two generous slices of pink-roasted lamb rump (we would have preferred fat to have been more rendered) were accompanied by peas à la française and a flavourful lamb jus. Proving that food miles really do matter, tender poached onions and a side order of new potatoes both came from the estate garden and were bursting with natural flavour. To finish, excellent ice creams added the final gloss to desserts including buttermilk and elderflower panna cotta and an impressive Manjari chocolate bar. At times, the busy lunch service seemed to overwhelm the mostly young and perhaps inexperienced front-of-house team and there were long-ish waits for dirty plates to be cleared. But it was a minor hiccup in an otherwise enjoyable meal. Lovers of English wine, both still and sparkling, will appreciate the selection from Wiston’s own cellars, enhanced by a short list of interesting bottles from around the globe.
Dining Information:
Private dining room, Counter seating, Wheelchair access, Parking, Electric car charging, Family friendly, Credit card required
North Farm, Wiston Estate, Washington, West Sussex RH20 4BB
01903 877845
