Condita
Edinburgh, Lothians
Ambling along a suburban Edinburgh street, it would be easy to pass the local post office and entirely miss the understated former shop unit that is Condita. Despite operating in this location for nearly five years, it retains the feel of a pop–up. Seasonally changing artworks, carefully curated retro furnishings, idiosyncratic features and a soundtrack reflecting the owner’s personal tastes are overlaid on the building’s functional neutrality. With just six tables, this is an intimate encounter with food that focuses on seasonality and local production – much of it from Condita's walled garden in the Borders. A pictogram bookmark depicting elements from each dish is the only clue to the fixed-price, multi-course surprise menu. An opening succession of ‘snacks’ might include their signature wine-marinated mussel served on an edible potato starch and squid-ink 'shell' or a delicate tartlet of sea trout adorned with fennel tops, brown shrimps and trout roe. A relatively predictable sequence of vegetable, fish and meat dishes follows, before a cheese course and two desserts. In terms of flavour, technique and sheer prettiness on the plate, one item stood out for us: seared/caramelised kohlrabi with a spiced soy glaze, studded with bergamot, pickled kohlrabi, micro leaves and flowers. Elsewhere, succulent loin of hogget accompanied by courgettes, roasted girolles, goat's curd accents and an anchoïade dressing is an equally accomplished creation. Chef Conor Toomey also proves his willingness to go beyond Scottish seasonality by incorporating striking, but less common, ingredients (often with an Asian twist), while a focus on foraging is evident in a bold dessert combining pineapple weed (aerated mousse and gel), chunks of sponge, meringue shards, punchy nasturtium ‘jam’ and a salty crumble involving umeboshi plums. Note that vegetarian and pescatarian options are available on booking but no changes can be made to the menu at time of eating. The wine list values depth rather than breadth, with a deep dive into a small number of individual producers offering some real gems; a handful are available by the glass if you don’t opt for the matched flight. Engaging staff and chatty chefs in the front-of-house prep kitchen help to pace the three-hour experience.
