Din Tai Fung Centre Point
Fitzrovia, London
London’s third branch of Din Tai Fung has been a long time coming. Originally scheduled to open in the landmark Centrepoint building in 2017, it was overtaken by outlets in Covent Garden and Selfridges. But the wait is finally over. Sitting on top of the Arcade Food Hall, this outpost of the international group has ditched its trademark Scandi-style interiors in favour of a big, bright, lively space (seating over 200) filled with velvety blue banquettes, marbled tabletops, and grey metallic chairs with black leather seating and flashes of gold, while floor-to-ceiling windows on both sides provide a bird's-eye view of the Tottenham Court Road area. Food-wise, popular dishes based on Huaiyang cuisine populate a menu that also includes the famous steamed soup dumplings (xiao long bao), handmade by a bevy of chefs at work in an open-to-view kitchen. Our classic pork version reinforced its long-standing reputation – each dumpling uniform in size and shape, perfectly fashioned with just the right flavours and bounce. To start, we enjoyed a moreish crispy prawn pancake as well as a crunchy oriental salad of beansprouts, tofu and vermicelli given heft with a tangy sesame oil dressing. Other highlights included noodles paired with silky pork, some prawn wontons laced with spring onions and a Szechuan chilli/garlic sauce, and a plate of young and tender stir-fried 'dou miao' pea shoots (grown in the UK and laced with garlic). To finish, warm, fluffy buns filled with salted egg-yolk custard (which oozes out when cut open) are irresistible, while red bean paste is also used to good effect as a filling for warm, soft buns and sweet versions of xiao long bao. Drink cocktails, beer, sake or wines (from £28).
Dining Information:
Separate bar, Family friendly
Unit R04, Centre Point, 11 St Giles Square, Fitzrovia WC2H 8AP
020 3034 0368
