Dinings
Marylebone, London
Having learned their trade at Nobu, Tomonari Chiba and Keiji Fuku opened Dinings in 2006 on a quiet residential thoroughfare not far from Baker Street. Little changes. The restaurant itself, crammed into a bijou Georgian terraced house, has a dinky sushi bar at street-level and a handful of tables in the basement. Concentrate on the tapas-sized sharing plates that deliver a clever cocktail of oriental flavours. While the cooking is nominally Japanese, pan-Asian fusion is never far away – as in a mini taco filled with delicious tuna tartare, or sizzling scallops with yuzu, chilli and soy. Sushi and sashimi are delicately prepared – and, occasionally, given a contemporary lift (think sea bass sushi topped with umeboshi purée and tosazu jelly). However, the kitchen understands the intricate techniques and subtle touches involved – especially when it comes to preparing the generally excellent sushi rice. Less familiar dishes such as aubergine nasu miso – strikingly replete with umami – and a splendid grilled o-toro mini donburi (rice bowl) are convincing proof that Japanese food isn't all about ethereal delicacy. The food arrives as and when, while a comprehensive selection of sake is the standout on the drinks list.
