Dishoom Kensington
Kensington, London
Housed in part of what was the Barkers department store of blessed memory, the Kensington outpost of the Dishoom group is an elegant, Art Deco room with booth seating that could almost be a railway station buffet of yesteryear, complete with a giant clock. On Thursday and Friday evenings, a resident jazz band, the Marine Liners, contributes to the nostalgic feel, while the menus perform agile variations on Indian all-day eating. There are Bombay breakfasts for the rise-and-shiners, small plates for the grazers – lamb samosas, okra fries, hot potato vada buns – and a repertoire of main dishes given enjoyably florid menu descriptions. Jackfruit biryani, masala prawns, and tea-seasoned chickpeas with crisp puris and sweet halwa are among the attractions. Vegan menus are of course butter-free, and full of invention, right through to basmati rice pudding with coconut milk, cardamom and cashews. First-class cocktails and everyday wines (from £29 a bottle) sit alongside lassis and coolers to wet the whistle.
