Dovetale
Mayfair, London
In a stylish, warm-toned space on the ground floor of 1 Hotel Mayfair (one of the latest in London’s luxury constellation), Tom Sellers and his executive chef Tom Anglesea set about updating the European classics. It’s a continuation of a theme that began at Story Cellar in Covent Garden – though, this being Mayfair, the menu is priced for people who have no need to look at prices. There are no gimmicks, the cooking is sound and provenance is high on the priority list – perhaps Somerset Saxon chicken (with a bourguignon garnish and creamed potatoes, for the whole table to share) or fallow deer from Oxfordshire's Lockinge Estate (served as a rack, sausage and pie, with Tokyo turnips and elderberry). We began with a tepid (rather than the advertised 'warm') tart of mushrooms in a delicate rye custard – a welcome hint of acidity coming from a few pickled mushrooms concealed within – while faultlessly steamed Dover sole fillets, teamed with a light scallop mousse, cauliflower, grapes and tarragon was a delicious take on sole véronique. On another occasion, we enjoyed a wonderfully meaty John Dory 'chop' with smoky hints from the Josper grill, smothered in a punchy Café de Paris butter with plenty of warm spicing. To finish, classic soufflés, French opera cake or a delicate pear and frangipane tart are the highlights. The final tally is almost unavoidably high, not helped by an extensive wine list that is soberingly expensive. Take our tip and give the sommelier a budget if you want to get the best out of it.
Dining Information:
Accommodation, Separate bar, Counter seating, Outdoor dining, Wheelchair access, Family friendly, Dog friendly
1 Hotel Mayfair, 1 Dover Yard, Mayfair W1J 8DJ
020 3137 4983
