Erst
Manchester, Greater Manchester
'As someone who wasn’t exposed to eating out until a late age, this has been a game changer for me,' admitted one convert who was turned on by Erst's many charms. Located in the red-brick Ancoats ‘quartier’, the anonymous exterior of this ground-floor, corner restaurant/natural wine bar does not immediately catch the eye. But, on entering, our senses were immediately seduced by a magical waft of garlic. It’s a small space and although the open-flame kitchen, bar and tables are close they’re not too close for comfort. The style is restrained post-industrial with Scandi-muted colouring and striking giant curved Bauhaus lamps. A single perfect violet artichoke in a jar makes the point: this is a committed and intently focused operation. A leading proponent of the school of small plates, the menu is short, seasonal and concise, while the cooking is confidently restrained. Given the brevity of the repertoire, it was surprising to find some repetition: two variations of grilled flatbread (admittedly fabulously puffy and charred); chilli in four dishes, including the delicate springtime hues of roast beetroot, ajo blanco and green chilli. Less successful was the sea bream crudo, blood orange and chilli where the latter nearly overpowered the translucent slices of fish. The only hot dish was sliced, richly savoury pork collar with chilli (again!) and cime di rapa. Foodie favourite Baron Bigod cheese was served with quince and a lavash cracker; rhubarb fool and meringue was a dollop of deliciousness. Kudos to the restaurant for not bowing to veggie hegemony and their uncompromising inclusion of dishes such as steak tartare with anchovy and kohlrabi. An unadorned plate of Northern Cure fennel salami, made nearby, was as good as any in Bologna. The short natural wine list is offered by the 125ml glass. Service is appropriately low-key and helpful. But, no – we still do not know why the restaurant is called Erst. And it would be awfully uncool to ask.
Dining Information:
Wheelchair access, Credit card required, No reservations
9 Murray Street, Ancoats, Manchester, Greater Manchester M4 6HS
0161 547 3683
