Freemasons at Wiswell
Wiswell, Lancashire
There are no signs to guide you to the narrow ginnel (alley to southerners) in this pretty village, where you finally spot the Freemasons sign with a sigh of relief and an appetite sharpened by the fresh air of the quietly affluent, green hills of the Ribble Valley. Once through the door, the welcome is warm and the young local staff are enthusiastic and endearing. The interior of Steven Smith’s pub is equally self-effacing: the tone is smart but comfortable, conventional and restful with old beams, huntin' and shootin' prints, wooden tables, flagstone floors and open fireplaces. All eyes are directed towards the output of a kitchen that describes itself as 'seasonal, progressive, passionate and humble'. It is certainly ambitious, with lots of contemporary tropes, notoceable energy and sophisticated skills. The flavour-driven cooking can be brilliant, with provenance and seasonality evident in both the short carte and tasting menus: Nidderdale lamb, Victoria plums, English burrata, Proctor’s Kick Ass Cheddar (sic). There are also playful nods to regional tradition – note an excellent crispy fish finger with samphire, ponzu and elderflower butter sauce, or a slow-cooked steamed suet pudding of Nidderdale lamb. Elsewhere, roast grouse with sticky leg, offal kebab, BBQ sweetcorn, pickled shimeji mushrooms and Cumberland sauce weaves all those elements together to create a rich, treacly dish that transcends its radical monotone appearance. While the kitchen aims high, some feel that execution strains on tiptoe to match it and occasionally totters: Herdwick lamb loin chops, for example, pronounced ‘exquisite’ and paired with a courgette flower intriguingly stuffed with softly spiced kofta, was sadly vanquished by the dominating note of balsamic in the accompanying green olive and basil sauce. Still, there's good news when it comes to dessert: a deconstructed lemon meringue pie with Scottish raspberries and pistachio ice cream was full of flavour, especially the eye-catching, frilly pistachio sponge you could have sworn were clumps of emerald parsley, while an unusual interpretation of French toast with Victoria plum, ginger biscuit and stem-ginger ice cream didn't hold back on the flavour front either. Cask ales are locally sourced, and the excellent wine list has plenty of choice by the glass such as a 2021 Pino Grigio, lush and rich with fruity tones for £5.50.
Dining Information:
Accommodation, Private dining room, Separate bar, Counter seating, Outdoor dining, Wheelchair access, Family friendly, Dog friendly
8 Vicarage Fold, Wiswell, Lancashire BB7 9DF
01254 822218
