Habas
Manchester, Greater Manchester
Simon 'El Gato Negro' Shaw has done it again – if we take 'it' to mean opening an easy-going small-plates restaurant delivering dishes with punch and savour. At Habas, the tapas king has turned his attention to a broad swathe of the culinary world 'from the Mediterranean to the Persian Gulf'. Deeper cultural dives are undoubtedly available elsewhere, but if it's going to be brought together, why not do it in an idiosyncratic, vast but cosy basement to a standard that repays liberal ordering? Shaw's signature open kitchen turns out generous meze platters with crisp lavash bread, cumin-scattered labneh and much more besides; follow on with a flatbread bearing chargrilled lamb kebab (juicier than its beef kofte counterpart) plus pomegranate and red cabbage. On the side, saffron-scented prawn and crab fritters with dill-flecked yoghurt are more elegant but just as rewarding as a boat-like dish of roasted heritage carrots swimming in labneh, zhoug and hazelnut dukkah. Spicy fried potatoes rich with salt and chilli flakes confirm the wisdom of a Lebanese lager, though there's plenty on the wine list too (from £26). Pud might be Turkish delight cheesecake or syrup-sodden walnut and coconut baklava.
Dining Information:
Private dining room, Separate bar, Counter seating
43a Brown Street, Manchester, Greater Manchester M2 2JJ
0161 470 9375
