Kalimera
Crouch End, London
After helming several successful popups around London, Télémaque Argyriou has concluded his odyssey and gone all bricks-and-mortar on us. The Crouch End setting for the Kalimera group (there are already venues in Paris and Lille too) has a colourful modern café feel, with a geometric yellow wall design and counter seating, where renditions of lightly tweaked Greek and Mediterranean food are the lure. Beetroot taramasalata and basil tzatziki will reset the tastebuds while appetising them, and it is vitally important not to miss the homemade pitta, challah or sourdough breads. Prawn saganaki is a surefire starter, the shellfish flamed up in ouzo, sauced in tomato, fennel and peppers, and finished with smoked Metzovone cheese and zhoug, the Middle Eastern coriander dressing. The lamb kleftiko, patiently awaiting you in its overnight marinade of oregano and cinnamon, is as tenderly appealing as can be, while fish-seekers need look no further than sea bass with black-eyed beans, broccoli and skordalia. Mastic ice cream is one of the key elements of the dessert repertoire, appearing both with kataifi pastry, sour cherries and walnuts, and with portokalopita (orange sponge) and pistachio crumble. Head straight for the Greek wines on the short list.
Dining Information:
Counter seating, Dog friendly, Credit card required
43 Topsfield Parade, Crouch End N8 8PT
020 8347 6667
