Kanishka
Mayfair, London
There's such variety to regional Indian restaurants in London currently, but this outing from Atul Kochhar sets itself apart by embracing the lesser-known cuisines of the Subcontinent's north-eastern provinces. Spread over two floors, Kanishka is relaxed and elegant, all soft-blue leather banquettes, grey leather chairs and white linen-clad tables offset by a stylish bar and a cool jazz soundtrack. As for the food, the pin-sharp contemporary output includes a delicious chicken tikka masala pie scented with cumin, featuring golden-brown puff pastry and accompanied by a compôte of mixed berries. Elsewhere, Welsh goat is used to good effect in a rich and spicy rogan josh, while first-class vegetarian dishes reinforce the kitchen's creative streak. Look out for steamed and tossed beetroot-filled momos (dumplings) served with a tangy beetroot pickle and a delicately spiced beetroot purée, or grilled paneer with tenderstem broccoli and a creamy, coconutty malai jhol topped with a drizzle of chilli oil and pomegranate seeds. To accompany, the cheese and chilli naan is simply moreish. Cross-cultural desserts range from a chocolate délice with Guanaja chocolate and milk ice cream to a beautifully crafted vanilla and rhubarb panna cotta with rhubarb compôte and carrot-halwa ice cream. All this comes at a price, although the set menu is good value. Service is well-meaning and pleasant but not as slick as many of its peers. To drink, there are bespoke cocktails and wines that have been carefully selected to match the food, with plenty of choice by the glass.
Dining Information:
Private dining room, Separate bar, Counter seating, Credit card required
17-19 Maddox Street, Mayfair W1S 2QH
020 3667 9990
