Killiecrankie House
Killiecrankie, Perthshire & Kinross
Tucked off a small track on the old road to the Highlands, Killiecrankie House eschews the image of a fusty, rural lodge in favour of elegant revitalisation. Co-owners Tom Tsappis and Matilda Ruffle began their sweeping transformation by renovating what was a faded hotel into a glistening restaurant with rooms. As the first commercial venture for the couple, the ambition is comprehensive and striking. In the bar, pink Murano glass leaves dangle over the marble-topped counter and the pre-prandials being drained beneath, while the dark, cosseting dining room is laid with mid-century furnishings that invite diners to peer into a shining, open kitchen. Behind these stoves, Tsappis and his small team take a lengthy, narrative approach to feeding the room – think elaborate sonnet, not punchy haiku. Across 13 or so courses, dishes flit between land and sea, raiding the Scottish larder with the enthusiasm now demanded of cooking at this level. Venison, appearing as both port-glazed loin and tartare on a recent visit, is from the Urrard Estate, over the garden fence. Langoustines are from Skye, mussels from Shetland. Pheasant, appearing as an opening canapé, comes as a luscious, velveteen pâté, laced with the acidic tang of black garlic, and balanced with earthy chestnut. A single mouthful, but beautifully put together. Later courses show humour (a small jelly mouse dissolving in a jug of hot broth) but, more importantly, technical skill. A chawanmushi (savoury Japanese custard) sits just on the right side of set, using the rich umami of miso to balance its sumptuous, creamy depth, while an equally luxurious risotto opts for pine nuts as a base, adding butter and bite to a plate topped with delicately pine-smoked oyster mushrooms, balanced with bursts of tart redcurrant. Drink pairings could be signature wines, a range of non-alcoholic creations or an eclectic assortment that takes in cider, sake, beer and less traditional vineyards – including bottles from Matilda Ruffle’s family vineyard in China. A diverse list is also available, including a dozen or so by-the-glass options and a couple of pages of bottles that start in the £40 bracket and barrel upwards to the mid-hundreds. Guidance offered on these reflects the well-informed, light-hearted and friendly service from the entire team.
Dining Information:
Accommodation, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Pre-payment required
Pass of Killiecrankie, Killiecrankie, Perthshire & Kinross PH16 5LG
01796 473220
