Kudu Grill
Nunhead, London
*Farrel Hirsch (formerly of the Greenhouse in Cape Town) has been appointed as Kudu Grill's head chef. Watch for a new review coming soon.*
A follow-up to the original Kudu, and part of Patrick Williams’ Kudu Collective, this South African grill occupies the shell of an old Truman’s pub with bags of atmosphere – helped along by a bevy of lively, knowledgeable staff. Racing-green banquettes and marble-topped tables set the scene in the dining room, where diners come to sample the output of the fired-up kitchen. Big, juicy cuts of meat and whole fish are blasted over the braai-style embers, and the results are full of flavour: a doorstep-sized pork chop (with an ‘impressive cap of fat’) is brought to life with a traditional chutney-style ‘monkey gland' sauce, while Cornish mackerel (rich and fleshy) is encased in a grill basket and given several piquant accompaniments including sharp datterini tomatoes and rock samphire. It’s also worth scoring some sides – perhaps crispy potato ‘fingerlings’ cooked in beef dripping or coal-roasted sweetcorn with roasted pumpkin seeds and a flavourful punch of silky-smooth curry mayonnaise. To start, the grilled potato flatbread is a must, blanketed with lardo and fermented wild garlic sauce, or you could plump for beef tartare – gloriously earthy, properly aged meat spiced with punchy harissa and offset by crispy shallots. Desserts are a side note, but do try the traditional ‘melktert’ choux buns with seasonal fillings if you have room (portions throughout are generous). Staff are also on the button when it comes to recommending bottles from the all-South African wine list.
Dining Information:
Counter seating, Wheelchair access, Family friendly, Dog friendly, Credit card required
57 Nunhead Lane, Nunhead SE15 3TR
020 3532 3078
