Lark
Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk
The lark ascends. A former bus shelter by the phone box on Angel Hill is chef James Carn’s first solo venture, and with its white walls, polished concrete floor and minimally laid tables is a welcome pop of urban cool for this market town. It thrills with its unforced, uncluttered, unerringly delicious food: icily fresh Orford oysters with apple, elderflower and dill granita; house-made fougasse bread providiing the perfect scoop for smoked cod’s roe; peppery radishes doing the same for whipped lardo. The menu is a laid-back arrangement of small and not-so-small dishes designed for sharing – they come when ready. There’s unabashed, fried deliciousness in hot, crisp pig's ears with bright gribiche sauce, and in late-winter’s parsnip fritters with Parmesan (creamed and grated abundantly) or hash browns – either as a side or topped with fresh Breckland muntjac tartare. Also expect silky little sopressini (perhaps served 'cacio e pepe' or with a ragù of chanterelles), Galician octopus with Padrón peppers plus red pepper and chilli jam, or the delicious, golden-pastried beauties that are 'shank pies'. When made with muntjac, or wild rabbit and black pudding, the accompanying Madeira sauce is masterly. Too many decisions? A ‘kitchen selection’ menu solves the problem. Finish with trifle because it is a sweet, nostalgic bowl of fun but with sharp, fresh, grown-up fruitiness – whether early spring’s rhubarb and hibiscus iteration or summer’s mango and passion fruit riff. The canelés are non-negotiable with your coffee for all their rummy, caramelly qualities. And to drink? The list is short and sweet, but also dry, red, rosé and sparkling. It’s packed with interest because it’s put together in careful collaboration with neighbouring independent wine merchants Vino Gusto. If there’s a run on the Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti, or the South African Nine Yards Chardonnay, or Rathfinny Estate's Blanc de Blancs (from Sussex), then refills are just a minute away.
Dining Information:
Wheelchair access, Credit card required
6A Angel Hill, Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk IP33 1UZ
01284 652244
