Llewelyn’s
Herne Hill, London
Just off the north-east corner of Brockwell Park, Llewelyn's fits snugly into the elegant environs of Herne Hill. Large windows flood the pale walls of the dining room with natural light, reflected by gilt-edged mirrors, while the sumptuous leather of the green banquettes makes a naturally inviting place to linger on an unhurried lunchtime. Despite the relative simplicity of the menu descriptions, there is much afoot in the dishes: a version of steak tartare incorporates orange zest, tarragon and touches of pickle, and is served on beef-dripping toast. A salad of octopus and cannellini beans is dressed with red pepper purée and smoked paprika. Touches of traditionalism are not scorned, though: fillet of crisp-skinned pollack is honour-guarded with mussels and sauced with a rich bisque, while a veggie dish of wild garlic gnocchi with ricotta and walnuts is pelted with aged Parmesan for that final umami flourish. Chicken with spring vegetables and bright green aïoli was 'lovely' for one visitor, and bread was also a highlight ('beautiful, fresh sourdough and a generous serving'). Citrus exercises its galvanising presence in desserts such as orange marmalade and chocolate semifreddo or citrus meringue tart. 'Service is as straightforward as the dining room,' notes one reader, 'delivering dishes at a steady meter.' An enterprising collection of wines, including a welter of skin-contact gear, adds to the allure. The owners recently opened a shop and wine bar called Lulu's, next door to the restaurant.
Dining Information:
No background music, Outdoor dining
293-295 Railton Road, Herne Hill SE24 0JP
020 7733 6676
