Lounge on the Green
Houghton, Cumbria
Local chef and restaurateur James Hill ‘takes inspiration from the places, people and “feel” of Carlisle,’ declares a fan of this immensely likeable establishment in a Cumbrian village a couple of miles off the M6. The dining room is an intimate space done out in shades of dark green and brown, with fixtures and fittings reflecting the local landscape. Two tasting menus are offered: the seven-course ‘yan’ (meaning ‘one’ in local dialect) and a trimmed-down ‘la’al’ (‘small’) version that’s ideal for lunch or a lighter meal. In truth, the latter is more substantial than the name implies, kicking off with a trio of appetisers: our top pick was a beautifully presented plate of meaty but melting monkfish wrapped in crispy cabbage topped with trout roe and crispy capers, plus a jug of buttery chive cream. Elsewhere the spotlight is on local ingredients given simple yet harmonious treatment in the modern idiom – as in pork cheek with fermented plum and salted turnip or BBQ Cumbrian beef rump served with velvety celeriac cream, hen of the wood mushrooms and some super-salty, savoury notes from koji soy, beef-fat potato and yet another little jug of gorgeous ‘gravy’. Desserts shun saccharine overkill in favour of, say, a disc of confit sea buckthorn, with a superb toasted-barley ice cream and a burnt meringue gilded with a white chocolate ‘leaf’ – a light, fragrant, milky treat. It’s also worth partaking of the North Country cheese selection – three artisan specimens served with beer fruit bread. Everything has its purpose on the plate, nothing is superfluous. Accompanying ‘bevvies’ (ie drinks pairings) aren’t taken from the main wine list, which offers a short but well-chosen selection with half a dozen by the glass. Alternatively, plump for a pint of draught beer – locally brewed, of course.
Dining Information:
Wheelchair access, Credit card required, Deposit required
27 The Green, Houghton, Cumbria CA3 0LF
01228 739452
