Mackerel Sky Seafood Bar
Newlyn, Cornwall
Plumb in the middle of Newlyn, Mackerel Sky comprises two venues, a couple of doors apart. The Shack has a weekly-changing menu during the busy holiday season, but the principal action goes on at the Seafood Bar. There are no reservations. Turn up early, and be prepared to queue on the street at busy times. People do. What they keep coming back for is a roll call of simple but appealing fish cookery, presented as plates that are a fair bit larger than 'small'. Tick a couple of options using a marker pen on the laminate menu, and see how you go. We enjoyed two breadcrumbed fillets of lemon sole with a tangle of pickled red cabbage and a pot of katsu curry sauce, as well as a hefty whole mackerel, browned all over, with samphire and pickled cucumber. Otherwise, there might be a panko-crusted monkfish burger in a brioche bun with chilli, mussels in creamy cider sauce or a crab mayo sandwich. A generous bowl of marinated anchovies (like tapas boquerones) is a good way in, while a chalkboard shows the day's special. It's all fresh and fun, with shared counter seating and a bevy of chefs crammed into an unfeasibly small kitchen area at the back. The short drinks list includes a South African blended white with plenty of fruit.
