Mama Putt’s
St Leornards on Sea, East Sussex
Paintings spied through plate glass windows plus art-splashed oil drums at the entrance suggest that Jerome Odibi’s vibrant neighbourhood eatery is not only about generous West African/Caribbean cooking and his unfailingly warm welcome. It is also unashamedly embedded in St Leonards' cultural community of artists and creatives. Odibi has the knack of making all-comers kindly welcome, with unforced warmth that can see off the woes of a long day. Mixing-and-matching Nigerian favourites (egusi soup, jollof rice) with Caribbean classics (goat curry, jerk chicken) works harmoniously, with standout starters ranging from spicy okra and yam to the house special of fried dumplings with stew sauce – hefty-looking but commendably fluffy. Our Jamaican pattie resembled a bought-in version, but the well-seasoned home-style mains marked a welcome return to proper cooking. Wine lovers shoiuld eschew the passable Chilean offerings and enjoy a can of Red Stripe or palate-steadying Guinness (imported from Nigeria for authenticity). More than 12 years down the line, this is still a neighbourhood stalwart with a big heart. It repays regular visits and is a colourful reminder of the original arty vibe that put St Leonards on the map.
