Ombra
Hackney, London
When Ombra opened its doors by the banks of the Regent's Canal back in 2011, today’s gentrification was a long way off. Now this former retail site is custom-built for a taste of Venetian-style bacaro cool. Drop by on spec, have a snack, have a drink, meet your friends – whatever you fancy. It's the perfect setting with its edgy but wonderfully whimsical interior design, tinted floor-to-ceiling windows and heated terrace for alfresco socialising. Chef Mitshel Ibrahim (ex-Clove Club) conjures up some rare inventions, taking his cue from the traditions of regional Italian small-plates grazing, but adding flavours that are all his own – how about Carlingford oysters topped with startling crimson beetroot and green sorrel? As for his light and crispy crostino topped with the most translucent home-cured pancetta, it ranks as ’one of the singularly most delicious mouthfuls I have ever tasted,’ drooled an inspector. Other prize nibbles might range from a ‘cauliflower mushroom’ (sparassis) with ‘nduja and egg yolk to cured mackerel tartare with fennel and blood orange, although you must leave room for some silky pasta. Tagliatelle with well-judged anchovy butter and a generous amount of shaved truffle is a ‘triumph of less is more’, while crab tortelloni with crab ragù and hen of the woods brings delicacy as well as flavour to the table. The menu also includes a couple of heftier ‘secondi’ too (roast monkfish with celery and pied de mouton), while classic ‘dolci’ could herald panna cotta with poached quince or a dark chocolate and Amaretti ‘bonet’. Since ‘ombra’ is Venetian dialect for a weeny glass of wine, it’s no surprise that drinkers have a ‘really interesting’ choice of Italian low-intervention tipples to sample (the Antonio Camillo, ‘Tutti i Giorni’ comes highly recommended). There are cool spritzs and aperitifs too.
