Orwells
Binfield Heath, Oxfordshire
Don’t be surprised if the first thing arriving at table in this former country pub is a bowl of curried popcorn. It’s part of a concerted effort to dispense with fuddy-duddy high-end dining that also involves informal, young servers and a soundtrack of pop classics. No corners are cut, mind: the staff are expertly trained and are happy to wax lyrical about the food – and well they might. This is cooking of the highest order, displayed via a choice of monthly tasting menus (available in vegetarian, vegan and omnivore versions) as well as a carte also based on top-notch seasonal ingredients. An inspection meal (from the six-course 'half menu') began with warm basil focaccia and a pat of butter with runny Orwells honey on top. Vegetarian cuisine is a strength, as evidenced by the opening dish: a little ball of chives scattered with crunchy seeds in a sweet-salty dressing of miso and honey. Next, ‘potato, pork, leek, mustard’ featured the spud in two guises – cubed in a tangy sauce at the base, and as a whisked ‘foam’ (like aerated mash) above, the whole mouth-wateringly topped with a tender, salty chunk of pork cheek. Innovation continued with the fish course, a juicy rectangle of turbot on a rich fish sauce laced with locally produced Fairmile wine, scattered with Jerusalem artichoke crisps; the masterstroke being the addition of bitter, herby home-grown marigold leaves to cut through the richness. Succeeding dishes maintained these standards: complementary textures in the squash with Stilton, almonds and nasturtium flowers; outstanding venison steak in the fallow deer with beetroot, chervil root and huntsman sauce; sweet intensity in the chocolate with crème anglaise, Caramac and pecan. Everything deserved its place on the plate. To drink, there are ample by-the-glass wines, or you could opt for the suggested flight; signature cocktails, mocktails, bottled beers and boutique gins also tempt. A low-key, relaxed feel is maintained throughout, and the small dining areas are well-maintained (think wooden flooring, bare beams, judiciously placed artefacts). Co-owner Ryan Simpson-Trotman hung up his chef’s whites for a while and did duty front-of-house, but he is now back alongside his husband Liam in the kitchen – although they often bring out dishes to the guests for that ‘customer contact’ fix.
Dining Information:
Private dining room, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Family friendly, Dog friendly, Credit card required
Shiplake Row, Binfield Heath, Oxfordshire RG9 4DP
0118 940 3673
