Osma
Prestwich, Greater Manchester
On the same week that the residents of Prestwich, a leafy suburb in north Manchester, were glowing from being described as one of the best places to live in the North West by The Sunday Times, they were also fuming about the same publication relocating the neighbourhood to Cheshire. Luckily, local pride was upheld by dinner at Osma.The name derives from the home cities of the owners (Oslo and Manchester) and the twin references are apparent in both the food and interior. The most striking feature is a large trough, spilling over with dried flowers and grass, hanging over a central island edged by high velvet chairs. Walls and floor are dark, with sultry marble, sparkling spotlights and slinky cocktail music adding to the vibe. The effect is Norwegian Wood meets Northern Soul. Around the corner of the L-shaped space, the design becomes more classic Nordic with light wood, outsize cream leather banquettes and a Calder-style mobile light fitting. At lunchtime, there's now a great-value fixed-price deal (starter, main, dessert), while dinner brings an array of 'small sharing plates' – although we experienced a choreography glitch in the coordination of plates and cutlery on the congested, teeny-tiny tables. The ebullient 'Manco-bant' of our waiter also wore a bit thin, but we will take that any day over snotty condescension. All is forgiven, though, when it comes to the quality of the utterly delicious food on the weekly menu. The 'art of saucing' is alive and well in Prestwich: an outstanding creamy, shellfish sauce with Cornish lobster, apple and pickled beetroot on a verjus jelly base; salmon with spinach, radish and impeccable tarragon sauce. There were more Scandi accents in an ethereal smoked mackerel pâté with asparagus, dill and cucumber, and in the salt cod croquettes with ramson mayo. The cooking skilfully displays its starry pedigree with enough novelty to tease the palate but not push it too far. The wine list is short and reasonably priced, while an all-day Sunday roast ‘with all the trimmings’ is hugely popular with the lucky lotus-eaters of Prestwich. If you fancy a taste of Osma in central Manchester, an offshoot is now open in the food hall at Exhibition Manchester on Peter Street.
Dining Information:
Separate bar, Counter seating, Wheelchair access, Parking, Family friendly, Cash only
132 Bury New Road, Prestwich, Greater Manchester M25 0AA
0161 706 0934
