Ox Club
Leeds, West Yorkshire
Headrow House is a former textile mill, very much part of Yorkshire's industrial heritage, and is reborn as Ox Club, where a roof terrace and beer hall are among the covetable spots. There is also a dynamic restaurant space with lots of bare blond wood – including some backless high stools just in front of the kitchen counter that will test the less-than-perfectly supple. Will Campbell took over as head chef in 2022, and carries forward Ox Club's take on modern British brasserie food, driven by sound populist instinct and substantial portions. The aromas of fire-grilling and roasting that emanate from the kitchen are enticing indeed, and might presage the arrival of a darkly crusted breast and drumstick of guinea fowl, adorned with charred sweetcorn, smoked truffle and herb oil. Beef cuts are even sturdier, with a bone-marrow and peppercorn sauce to accompany aged sirloin, fired on the bone – or there might be whole turbot with sea beet in smoked butter. The preliminary courses are not necessarily in the same category – our grilled sardines came in a sauce that didn't remotely resemble the advertised beurre blanc – and a lighter hand with oil dressings wouldn't go amiss. That said, the side of crispy potatoes with 'nduja mayo is worth a not inconsiderable round trip. Finish, perhaps, with aerated chocolate mousse and morello cherries with a twangy redcurrant sorbet. Good beers are one of the draws of the place; otherwise, the list of 20 off-piste wines is worth considering.
Dining Information:
Separate bar, Counter seating, Wheelchair access
Headrow House, The Headrow, Leeds, West Yorkshire LS1 6PU
0113 485 1814
