Petit Pois
Brighton, East Sussex
In the heart of the city where the Lanes run down to the sea, and just a hundred yards from the beach, Petit Pois is in an ideal spot to serve up joie de vivre by the bucket load. Tables are authentically tight in the bistro way, and the place generates quite a noise when at full throttle. The design ethic is simple and unpretentious (lots of wood, natural brick and tiles) and the menu steers a course around classic French cuisine. Small and big plates are designed for sharing, with duck rillettes, toast and pickles as straight as a die, likewise chicory and Roquefort with candied walnuts – another traditional favourite done well. Local fish finds its way into bouillabaisse or go for monkfish fillet with spicy chorizo casserole. A blood-orange sauce points up tender, pink duck breast (with celeriac dauphinoise and beetroot purée), while tarte tatin is as classic as you might hope for when it comes to dessert. Check out the weekday prix-fixe menu at £23 for three courses. The wine list takes a spin around the French regions, with bottles from £27.
