Pidgin
Hackney, London
*Following the departure of Drew Snaith, Naz Hassan (ex-Bibi in Mayfair) has been named as Pidgin's head chef. Watch for a new review coming soon.*
A moody but cute little spot that’s pure Hackney, Pidgin comes dressed up in shades of grey with stripped-back furnishings, orange-hued lighting and shelves of wine and ferments – plus real twigs and branches affixed to the walls. Chatty staff are in tune with the East London vibe, often singing along to the background music but handling everything with smoothness and efficiency. Food is prepared in a teeny-tiny kitchen and the place is famous for its oft-changing but never repeated tasting menu (remarkably, they have devised more than 1,250 different dishes since opening in 2015). Flavours and ingredients are nominally British and emphatically seasonal, although global influences run through just about everything. Proceedings kick off with some splendid snacks, from deep-red venison bresaola to flavoursome whipped ricotta and green tomato served on a square of puff pastry. After that, the kitchen has served up plenty of enjoyable bigger plates: a well-balanced combo of broad beans, almond paste and spiky lemonella chilli; a terrific dish of well-timed Cornish squid with Camargue rice and roast lemon sauce; a ‘miniature take on a roast dinner’ involving ‘cull yaw’ mutton cooked with carrot and Normandy cider, plus some trad mint sauce on the side. Cheese is well chosen, pumpkin ice cream makes a decent palate cleanser, and desserts could include coffee cake with Magic Star apple (‘really tasty when eaten together,’ noted one recipient). Good-value wines by the glass top the carefully selected Old World list.
Dining Information:
Credit card required
020 7254 8311
