Restaurant Number 20
Port Mulgrave, North Yorkshire
Owned and run by Sue and Jason Davies, this small, simple but outstandingly good restaurant sits in little Port Mulgrave, a hamlet one mile inland from the sea and the Cleveland Way National Trail. It comprises just one room and 24 covers in what was the village pub and has never been drawn into the vogue for tasting menus, sharing plates or pre-desserts – the couple have their own distinctive way of doing things, it's a formula that works and long may it continue. Sue commands things front of house, Jason works from the open kitchen, producing a short but perfectly executed menu – three starters, three mains – where top-quality ingredients are treated simply and their elements are allowed to shine. Situated so near the coast, fish is a strong suit here, perhaps wild sea bass carpaccio with olive oil, lemon and chilli, seared scallops on grilled polenta and spinach with a piquant anchovy and rosemary sauce, or a rich crab risotto. The Josper grill gets a good workout too, with fabulous steak (fillet with smoked potatoes, charred cabbage and horseradish cream; ribeye with borlotti beans and a herby salsa) and seasonal game (spatchcocked partridge from the North York Moors, grilled with lemon and thyme, say). For dessert, it might be panna cotta, a sorbet made from fragrant Fregola grapes or a delicate burnt Basque cheesecake. The cheeseboard is invariably a single, perfectly ripe specimen (maybe Young Buck or Lincolnshire Poacher) accompanied by quince cheese, grapes and oatcakes. Service is spot-on, with Sue efficiently working all the tables herself and advising knowledgeably on wine.
