Sticky Walnut
Chester, Cheshire
If raising the dosh to open restaurants by crowdfunding sounds like a trendy thing to do, that's because Gary Usher is very much a modern chef (and entrepreneur), big on social media, naturally, and a frank voice on TV. All restaurants in his Elite Bistros group are located in the North West, and this neighbourhood venue in a Chester suburb is where he first opened (on a shoestring budget) a dozen years ago. It's a confirmed favourite. Spread over two floors, with the kitchen action partly visible downstairs, there's a pleasing simplicity and naturalness to the whole place. The menu keeps pace with the changing seasons and shows allegiances to both British and broader European ideas. Kick off with pig's head croquettes, for example, accompanied by salt-baked pineapple (a clever foil to the richly tender meat) or creamy burrata with Asian-inspired pickled kohlrabi and blackened spring onion dressing. Among main courses, braised featherblade of beef comes with deliciously indulgent truffle and Parmesan chips (plus wild mushroom ketchup), while cod arrives with a salad of summer courgettes and a dollop of taramasalata. Keep an eye out for daily specials. Wander off happily into the night (or the afternoon) after a plate of floating islands or sticky toffee pudding. The wine list is a concise one-pager covering all bases, with everything available by the glass and bottle prices starting at £23.
Dining Information:
Family friendly, Credit card required
11 Charles Street, Chester, Cheshire CH2 3AZ
01244 400400
