The Clock House
Ripley, Surrey
Apparently Lord Nelson used to stop off in Ripley en route between London and Portsmouth and, had he lived to fight another day, he might have made it across the threshold of this handsome house on the High Street. The eponymous clock hangs out front above the door, where two Doric columns stand guard and the glass in the sash windows is prettily painted with seasonally changing scenes. There is bags of character within, and a contemporary elegance too, with an upstairs bar for pre-prandials and a walled garden for the warmer months. The fixed-price tasting menu impresses with its ambition and execution, while fashionable techniques such as pickling are used to good effect. Among the snacks, a little tartlet of cured sea trout with pickled fennel and horseradish mayonnaise strikes all the right notes, before the first of the five courses arrives – a crystal clear Jerusalem artichoke broth with perfectly firm spelt, crunchy veg and confit quail's egg. Textures and flavours hit the mark throughout, although the cured ox heart could have been beefed up in a dish of beetroot and buttermilk. Cornish brill is shown maximum respect, poached just-so, and served up with a duo of 'heavenly' purées (caramelised walnuts and pickled celeriac). Shorthorn beef stars two ways, the tender cheek in a hotpot topped with silky smoked potato purée, and the fillet (pink and soft) topped with bone marrow, shallots and mushrooms in gloriously sticky harmony. The beef is also joined by a hen of the woods mushroom and a Roscoff onion braised for an age until wonderfully forgiving; if that sounds like a lot on one plate, every element really does play a part. To finish, 85% Pump Street chocolate is made into a crémeux and partnered by a 'fabulous' buckwheat ice cream, stout caramel and puffed rice – once again, each element brings something to the table. The wine list is a well constructed tome and knowledgeable staff are on hand to help you make sound decisions, although there are slim pickings below the £50 mark; glasses kick off at £11 for a 125ml of Picpoul from the Languedoc. Attention to detail is a hallmark, and time seems an irrelevance as you surrender yourself confidently into the capable hands of the smiling, switched-on team.
Dining Information:
Private dining room, Separate bar, Credit card required, Deposit required
High Street, Ripley, Surrey GU23 6AQ
01483 224777
