The Double Red Duke
Clanfield, Oxfordshire
Despite its location in a bucolic backwater, this substantial 17th-century Cotswold hotel, bar and restaurant is a strong draw even on the bleakest of midweek nights. Local families come for a pub meal in the large, woody bar area (well-stocked with local ales), couples head for a table in the dimly lit, intimate dining rooms (perhaps by a smouldering fire), and friends chew the cud under venerable beams and portraits in oils – or sit on stools at the chefs’ counter by the open kitchen. Unless, of course, it’s a warm summer’s day, when the garden terrace is a magnet to all. An eclectic soundtrack ranging from rock guitar to cool jazz is piped both inside and out. The same menu is served in the bar and restaurant, though the choice varies through the day, from breakfast (devilled kidneys, say), via lunch, mid-afternoon snacks and dinner. An inspection meal began with a well-flavoured little portion of tender beef tartare under a mound of Parmesan. This was nudged into second place by a mouth-wateringly succulent log of (boneless) bacon ribs, neatly matched with a tangle of crunchy shaved fennel slaw. Steaks are a forte and appear in various guises, including hefty 1kg porterhouses for £85. A rump steak arrived medium-rare as requested, thickly sliced, juicy, pink and flavourful, with thick béarnaise (lukewarm) and crisp chips in supporting roles. Less pleasing was an albeit accurately pan-fried fillet of cod in a salty velouté populated by unadvertised samphire and chunks of cucumber. Puddings ended proceedings on a high note, especially the Yorkshire rhubarb pavlova with blood-orange sorbet (an expert balance of sweet and zesty). Slips in service aren't unknown, but the drinks list offers plenty of joy – from a varied, mostly Old World wine selection (including English labels and ample by-the-glass options) to house cocktails, bottled English ciders and even a couple of meads.
Dining Information:
Accommodation, Private dining room, Separate bar, Counter seating, Parking, Electric car charging, Family friendly, Dog friendly
Bourton Road, Clanfield, Oxfordshire OX18 2RB
01367 810222
