The Kilberry Inn
Kilberry, Argyll & Bute
It can get chilly outside, especially if the wind is blowing across the water from Jura and Islay, but all is snug and cosy behind the rough-hewn stone walls of this enchantingly remote Scottish hideaway. Since arriving in 2004, Clare Johnson (chef) and David Wilson (wine expert) have lovingly transformed what was an old crofter's lair into a personable restaurant with rooms, retaining its heritage looks, log fires and ancient beams, while taking full advantage of the local larder for a dinner menu that delivers freshness, flavour and ‘so many wonderful, perfectly cooked courses’. To begin, slurp a plate of Gigha oysters au naturel, before continuing the seafood theme: everyone mentions the grilled Tarbert langoustines (perhaps pepped up with brown butter, pink grapefruit and tarragon), although a trio of fleshy king scallops baked with garlic and white port was the standout for one reader. For something gutsier, try hake with beer, Ayrshire bacon and cabbage. Meat eaters, meanwhile, might prefer some local game (smoked grouse with poached pear, say), rump of lamb or ‘precisely seasoned’ ribeye steak with a perky ‘green sauce’. Sides and extras are also worth a mention – especially the brown soda bread (‘even better toasted for breakfast’), the generous salad options and vegetables including baby potatoes slathered in garlic and fennel butter. To round things off, Scottish cheeses share the billing with classic desserts – prune, Armagnac and frangipane tart, for example. David Wilson’s wine list is an intelligently chosen and ‘well-constructed' compendium with many versatile, food-friendly selections inspired by his travels; he also knows his vermouths and mixes a mean Negroni. In short, ‘excellent Scottish cooking and hospitality at its best.’
Dining Information:
Accommodation, Separate bar, Counter seating, Parking, Family friendly
Kilberry Road, Kilberry, Argyll & Bute PA29 6YD
01880 770223
