The Mirabelle
Eastbourne, East Sussex
Eastbourne's prime piece of Victorian real estate at the western end of the esplanade lives up to its billing: the Grand Hotel in all its magnificence stands proudly overlooking the English Channel. It's also home to the Mirabelle – the town's premium restaurant, which has its own entrance to the side of the building, and fills a capacious space with bags of old-school style. The smart, formal dining room has service to match and a soundtrack of classical piano that adds to the mood of refinement. Head chef Michael Sutherland plays to the crowd with a menu balancing classical sensibilities with little dashes of modernity – this is classy cooking. Embracing a carte, set lunch and evening tasting menu, the kitchen turns out a ballotine of Norfolk quail, the tender bird stuffed with chicken and tarragon mousse, with hits of sticky date ketchup and gently pickled kohlrabi – or how about a duck egg cooked at 64 degrees and served with summer pea purée, smoked duck ham and pickled shallot rings? The dish descriptions may sound busy, but every element seems to play its part. Cornish hake is poached just-so, as fresh as a daisy, and arrives dressed with baby courgettes in a punchy crab bisque. Among meaty options, maple-glazed pork belly (with white onion purée and Mouneyrac apricots) competes with fallow deer Wellington. To finish, chocolate marquise is another classy little number, glossy and not too rich, with notes of extra sweetness from salted caramel popcorn and popcorn ice cream. The wine list matches the grand setting with a section devoted to English bottles alongside some big guns from France and the rest of the world.
Dining Information:
Accommodation, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Credit card required
The Grand Hotel, King Edward's Parade, Eastbourne, East Sussex BN21 4EQ
01323 412345
