The Raby Hunt
Summerhouse, Durham
* James Close is shutting Raby Hunt, selling up and moving to nearby Rockliffe Hall at Hurworth-on-Tees, where he will become 'culinary director'. He will be joined by his wife Maria Close, as well as head chef Adam Molloy and restaurant manager Jack Adams, with plans to open a new restaurant within the hotel in late 2024. Last service at Raby Hunt, 27 January 2024. *
From the outside, the Raby Hunt is another ivy-covered country pub, even a touch nondescript, on a long, straight stretch of B-road in what feels like the middle of nowhere, 10 to 15 minutes' drive northwest of Darlington. Then the zinc-fronted extensions of a kitchen and entranceway loom into view, and it feels as though something exciting might be at play. As you step over the threshold, there’s a cavity in the floor filled with bone-coloured gravel and a shiny silver skull. But of course. Despite the death's head, and some faintly chilling blue spotlighting, James Close's place is run with relaxing warmth. Along with his wife Maria, he has turned the kitchen here into a hive of excitement with commanding flavours cropping up throughout a globetrotting repertoire. A vibrant Peruvian dish of Hamachi ceviche is topped with a zesty foam of coconut and kefir lime; a delicate blue corn suckling pig taco comes next and is soon followed by a spectacular piece of maki – a world class bite to stop you in your tracks. From the classic portion of the menu a Lindisfarne oyster is lightly poached in Champagne sauce cut with dill oil, while a signature seafood dish involves razor clams and Morecambe Bay shrimps in a positively meaty array of celeriac, girolles and almonds. When the actual meat arrives, it's bristling with savoury class – a cutlet of Herdwick lamb with anchovy cream, topped with a leaf of romaine lettuce and aromatic with Australian truffle, for example. Another course of impeccable wagyu is darkly charred on the outside, properly fatty and correct in every way. The house logo turns up as the final bite – a multicoloured chocolate skull flavoured with yuzu and sancho pepper and lively with popping candy. It's all tremendous fun, served without undue reverence, and accompanied by some truly venturesome wines. Try a Polish Chardonnay or a Grüner Veltliner Eiswein – and don't miss Voyer's benchmark Pineau des Charentes. Note that James Close's summer menu for 2023 (running from June until the end of September) sees a drop in price to £195 and some thrilling new dishes ranging from a tostada of Spanish bluefin tuna akami with chipotle mayonnaise to dark chocolate tart with hazelnut pastry and Distiller's Edition Lagavulin whisky.
Dining Information:
Accommodation, Wheelchair access, Parking, Family friendly, Credit card required
Front Street, Summerhouse, Durham DL2 3UD
01325 374237
