The Rocket Store
Boscastle, Cornwall
For such a diminutive building, the Rocket Store certainly makes a bold statement on Boscastle’s inner harbour wall. Built in 1898 to house horse-drawn rocket-firing equipment for the coastguard, the single-storey brick building, with outdoor seating spilling out onto its equally modest courtyard, is quite a contrast to the centuries-old, whitewashed cottages that the village is known for. Owned by Alex Key and Freddie Woodruff, who also run a London-based food business called NOCO, the kitchen specialises in small plates featuring fresh seafood from their own boat, some meat from their nearby farm, and local produce – organic, where possible. The short, daily changing blackboard menu is fish-led, often with Asian flavours giving heft. A charred, soft-as-you-like scallop in luscious seaweed butter may act as a prelude to slices of wild sea bass sashimi with fish sauce and Thai basil. Elsewhere, ginger, apple and cucumber snow, topped with red chillies, offer a great foil to the crunch of fried chickpeas and the cooling powers of a yoghurt and mint dressing. More substantial plates range from a flawlessly cooked Dover sole on the bone with spring onions and garlic to John Dory in lemongrass and lime-leaf butter, while vegetables are given equal attention – say on-point, charred hispi cabbage with seaweed butter or smoked potatoes infused with salsa verde. Desserts are just as captivating, especially an orange and caraway-seed chocolate pot with clotted cream (beautifully bitter and just the right side of sweet) and a deliciously tart passion fruit posset. A selection of classic and natural wines sits alongside bespoke cocktails and organic beers.
