The Royal Oak
Whatcote, Warwickshire
First impressions of this thatched stone inn on the fringes of the Cotswolds might suggest a smart, well-cared-for village hostelry – and the sight of locals supping pints of real ale in the bar with its low-ceilinged nooks and pubby paraphernalia admirably reinforces that view. But move into the spacious, glassed-in conservatory dining room and it’s clear that something seriously gastronomic is also going on here. Chef-owner Richard Craven has forged close links with many local enterprises, including the forward-thinking Paddock Farm (just across the border in Oxfordshire) famed for its regenerative farming techniques, rare breeds and ‘no-dig’ vegetables. Game from the pub’s huntin’ and shootin’ friends is a star seasonal attraction, along with seafood from the Cornish day boats and foraged ingredients from the local countryside. The result is a short fixed-price menu of highly worked, multi-layered contemporary dishes noted for their pinpoint flavours, balance and technical know-how. How about a pairing of fallow buck with celeriac, walnut and Voatsiperifery (Madagascan) wild pepper or a piece of turbot dressed with cauliflower, kalamansi and mussels? Pasta turns up regularly (perhaps hand-rolled garganelli with winter truffle, preserved wild garlic and capers), while the choice of two desserts might include intriguing assemblages such as chocolate soufflé with pear sorbet and birch caramel. Also be sure to get your fill of the Royal Oak's excellent breads. South African labels feature prominently on the concise 30-bin wine list, which also has a decent selection by the glass.
Dining Information:
Separate bar, Outdoor dining, Wheelchair access
The Orchard, Whatcote, Warwickshire CV36 5EF
01295 688100
