The Star Inn
Sparsholt, Oxfordshire
From the moment the bread arrives (moreish chewy sourdough with a baba ganoush dip as well as butter) until the delicate macaroons are presented with the bill, you know this is no ordinary restaurant with rooms. Flurries of clued-up, well-trained staff, folding and refolding napkins, confirm the impression; their one slip at inspection (forgetting our side dishes) was soon forgiven. The Star is now owned by the folk behind the renowned Woodspeen near Newbury, who carried out a major refurb on this former pub, reopening it in June 2022. The Woodspeen’s exec chef, Peter Eaton, also guides proceedings here and produces highly considered, enticing seasonal menus. Choose from a brief set deal (a bargain in these post-COVID times) or an inventive modern British carte, where a deep-fried ball of smoked haddock brandade could be matched with crunchy sweet-and-sour turnip slices, pulled pork and a terrific fennel-flavoured fish broth. To follow, two slices of roasted venison haunch maintained the lofty standards, ably abetted by beetroot, maitake mushroom, black garlic, pulled venison shoulder and a tangy elderberry gravy: flavours, textures, colours, presentation, all on song. Neither should the set menu be discounted: smoked mackerel rillettes boosted by piquant pickled cucumber, beetroot and sourdough croûtons might precede a brilliant-white slab of pan-fried pollock with a crispy hash brown, roasted fennel and balsamic dressing. Pudding? From the autumn set menu, Paris-Brest with blackberry fool, zesty pickled apple and blackberries made a fitting finale. The 18th-century premises have been sensitively converted, witness the scrubbed wooden beams, backlit bar and vibrant modern art on the walls. The look, and the cool jazz soundtrack, finds favour with Oxfordshire’s well-heeled couples and foursomes who also appreciate the choice from an extensive drinks list. The roster encompasses a variety of cocktails plus some 200 wines, including ample selections by the glass – there are no annotations, though staff will happily talk you through the options (dispensing ‘good sense’, remarked one fan).
Dining Information:
Accommodation, Separate bar, Wheelchair access, Parking, Family friendly
Watery Lane, Sparsholt, Oxfordshire OX12 9PL
01235 751873
