The Stubborn Duckling
Aberaeron, Ceredigion
Behind a charming old shop front in the heart of Aberaeron lies a homely but stylish little restaurant where flamboyant feature walls, stripped floors and mid-century furniture give a retro edge. Daniel Powell, formerly of the nearby Harbourmaster hotel, has built an inviting menu around classy takes on familiar favourites – duck liver parfait with balsamic gel, crackling and toasted brioche, for example, or fillet of Welsh beef with a rarebit mushroom, Café de Paris butter, bordelaise sauce and rustic fries. Flavours are very much to the fore here. At a test meal, a take on mac and cheese involving Cardigan Bay crab was silky and umami-laden, while rosy, tender rump of Welsh lamb was served on peas, broad beans and spinach with a fresh, aromatic mint gel and a luxuriant truffle and Cheddar mash. The classics keep on coming at dessert too – a perfect crème brûlée was generously boosted with a raspberry madeleine and a scoop of white chocolate and raspberry-ripple ice cream. This is big-hearted, generous cooking – no standing to attention, just a welcome focus on relaxation and indulgence. As for drinks, expect some local beers alongside a slate of good-value wines.
