The Wildebeest
Stoke Holy Cross, Norfolk
At first glance it looks like a roadside pub, name emblazoned on the painted brickwork, garden furniture and parasols on the terrace, decent parking at the side. But look again to find an ambitious restaurant in a spacious, airy room with plants, bare floors, moody photographic art, banquettes and carefully laid tables. Chef-owner Daniel Smith’s roots live deep in the classical repertoire, so expect ingredients that nod to luxury, and techniques that tell of a drilled and skilled kitchen. The choice is rich (and pricey) in these days of pared-back, shortened menus – a seven-course taster, a substantial carte and a more wallet-friendly set menu 'du jour'. Out for early applause comes monkfish, beautifully pale and tender, with brown shrimps, a tangle of crisped potato and freshening cucumber, some chopped finely into a raita and some chunked and seared sweetly. It’s no surprise to find scallops on offer, seared and served with pork (belly and boudin), as tradition dictates. Fillet of beef and Gressingham duck breast vie for main-course attention, but John Dory wins. It is crisp of skin and expertly cooked, while the mash it sits on is of the silkily butter-laden Robuchon kind. The result is luxurious, generous and well-seasoned, finished with a flourish of Champagne sauce and minuscule spheres of courgette, pieces of asparagus, flicks of samphire and a few nasturtium leaves lightening everything up. Desserts are true to classical form, so expect soufflés, crémeux and parfaits that do wondrous things with local strawberries, cherries and rhubarb, all plated with fragile tuiles at jaunty angles, sharp sorbets and gels, and the occasional tumble of sweet white chocolate. You’ll find wine from £26, while a broad by-the-glass choice (starting at £6.75 for a simple South African Chenin Blanc) is welcome.
Dining Information:
Wheelchair access, Parking
82-86 Norwich Road, Stoke Holy Cross, Norfolk NR14 8QJ
01508 492497
