Upstairs by Tom Shepherd
Lichfield, Staffordshire
An easily missed door beside a jeweller’s shop in the centre of Lichfield hides something special – a small, tasteful first-floor dining room of some 24 covers that plays constantly to a full house. There’s no doubt that, since opening in 2021, Tom Shepherd has established a strong local following in an area not noted for the quality of its restaurants – booking is essential. A mix of seasonality and impeccable sourcing characterises the cooking here, while the food is about sharply delineated flavours with bite from combinations that spark the imagination. It’s all pulled together by the enthusiasm and skill of the former head chef at Restaurant Adam’s in Birmingham and his young brigade – seen calmly beavering away in the open-to-view kitchen. The opening salvo of the seven-course tasting menu (there’s a good-value four-course lunch too) is terrific: a palate-awakening red cabbage gazpacho with a punchy, creamy horseradish ice cream and drops of fruity, high-quality olive oil, and a plump Orkney scallop set on a bed of peanut sauce and topped with roasted crumbs of peanut and sesame seeds. Every detail makes sense when Atlantic cod is lightly brined and served atop a buttery, lemony mussel sauce dotted with caviar, plus crunchy kohlrabi tagliatelle on the side; likewise, black truffle, creamy goat's cheese, girolles and courgette various ways (raw, puréed and deep-fried mini flowers) give meaty intensity and texture to veal sweetbreads. A spin on roast lamb sees a nugget of tender, pink hogget teamed with turnip purée, an intense red onion compote, black garlic and mint, with a mini-pot of the slow-cooked meat on the side. Finally, an intriguing Asian note is sounded in an ‘astonishingly good’ Thai green curry crossover dish: a base of rice pudding topped with mango (freshly diced and sorbet), coconut cream, kaffir lime and puffed rice. Wine is taken very seriously, so expect much earnest discussion and a classy list that invites exploration. Bottles start at £26, but do seek the readily forthcoming advice. Front-of house staff with an innate sense of hospitality help to make this place truly memorable.
Dining Information:
Counter seating, Deposit required
25 Bore Street, Lichfield, Staffordshire WS13 6NA
01543 268877
