Zucco
Leeds, West Yorkshire
Inspired by London’s bacaro-style eateries, the hands-on Leggiero brothers have brought some true Italian aperitivo spirit to this animated spot beside a busy road in suburban Leeds. Zucco certainly looks the part – high stools, subway-tiled walls, black-and-white chequerboard floors, filament bulbs dangling from a copper-panel ceiling – and its menu ticks all the boxes. With brother Michael overseeing proceedings, the kitchen turns out kindly priced Italian small plates and sharing dishes with bags of personality and all the right accents. Pizzette and pastas are always a good shout – perhaps spaghetti with polpette or baccala (salt cod) ravioli with sage and white wine – but other items also catch the eye. How about chargrilled octopus with saffron potatoes or pork belly stuffed with apricots, sun-blush tomatoes and capers? Meanwhile, sweet-toothed punters can revel in a line-up of all-Italian classics – affogato, sgroppino, lemon and polenta cake, ricotta-filled cannoli, (vegan) gelati and so on. Equally classic cocktails share the billing with a short list of Italian regional wines, including plenty by the glass or carafe.
