But a surge of new openings in past years has done much to put Islington firmly on the list as a foodie destination in itself – and not just for the wisteria hunting Instagram obsessive. Ed Tan aka @onehungryasian gives us his tour.
Officially speaking, Islington covers Clerkenwell stretching all the way up to Archway and includes Finsbury Park. This guide zones in on Angel up to Highbury, and the areas on either side of it covering parts of Essex Road and Barnsbury.
The new kids
For those familiar with Islington already, these new spots should dispel any idea that the local area is incapable of change.
Firstly, a holy trinity of bakeries in the space of 10 mins walk of each other together form potentially the three best bakeries in London. The renowned and long-standing Pophams still creates some of the best pastries in London, but newcomer Anna Higham (from acclaimed Lyle’s and Flor) has since opened Quince, and Sourdough Sophia opened her newest bakery in April to hour-long queues of fans dying to try her famous “cruffins” and bow croissants.
SE Asian food has been blessed too with Tofu Vegan which serves dishes as good as meaty ones (trust me, I was shocked), and Hainan House’s modern take on classic, homely dishes on Upper Street is a delight. For those craving something akin to a curry house, the success of Desi pub The Tamil Crown has been so great they now have opened The Tamil Prince on the other side of the borough. Throw in Jam Delish, a new Caribbean restaurant highly recognised as one of the best amongst the vegan community – and the average spice intake across the borough has been raised significantly.
Italian food is represented in two ways with Detroit Pizza, who brings its deep-dish pizzas to Upper Street (but do try the meatballs), and Tiella, run by Dara Klein who has worked in some iconic Italian restaurants of London, with rustic Pugliese dishes out of the small but incomparable pub, The Compton Arms.
And for those looking for something a bit nostalgic, Caravel conjures up that old-school white table service atmosphere but in delightfully relaxed and modern surroundings - a converted boat permanently moored on the canal. A short lunch here can very quickly turn into an all-afternoon affair, not to mention evenings when the fairy lights come on.
The classics
Family-run Saponara is a deli-restaurant with pizzas and pasta that would make any new sourdough-Neapolitan pizzeria pale in comparison, while Frederick’s in Camden Passage have also been family-run since 1969. Bellanger’s ‘Grand café’ decor makes it the perfect spot for family affairs – it’s perfect for larger groups or trying to impress the in-laws.
For those craving sushi, Hot Stone offer set price Japanese-inspired dining in classy surrounds for brilliant value. For sheer quality however, Sushi Show is known among aficionados as some of the best in London. Takeaway is the order of the day here though as there’s little seating – don’t miss the fatty tuna specials.
Still within Camden Passage, Kipferl’s Austrian cakes and savoury dishes continue to delight and it has the honour of being one of the only (if not only) completely Austrian owned spots in London, with products imported from Austria to ensure authenticity with their wiener schnitzel and sausages.
On the topic of authenticity, SKÅL’s Nordic food far surpass the meatballs you’ll find at IKEA, Little Georgia sees visitors come far and wide for the fluffy khachapuri (a baked bread and the national dish of Georgia), and Afghan Kitchen offers an elbow-rubbing, tight menu experience with homemade Middle Eastern dishes that’s cash only.
I would be remiss too if I did not mention the pubs. Islington’s pub selection is second to none in London, particularly for the density in the area. Suffice to say, my favourite for food is Smokehouse (or previously mentioned Compton Arms), and I’ve yet to visit any pub that has disappointed for snacks, pints, and good wine. And I’ve visited a lot of them… Plaquemine Lock is notable however in that it offers some of the only Cajun and Creole food in all of London. The jazz brunch is something special!
It’s 5 o’clock somewhere
If you’re looking for a more refined experience than a pint out the barrel, then Islington still has you covered. Most famous perhaps is The Bar with No Name, an award-winning and world-leading cocktail bar on Colebrooke Row. If you want to keep the award vibe going, OGAM offers tapas and cocktails from a South Korean national champion bartender (the Korean Fried Chicken here is unreal), and The Bottle Cocktail Shop caters for drinkers of all types with its takeaway pre-mixed bottles and evening drinking. Little Bat, MUST Wine Bar, and Home Boy round out the other great options in the area.
Islington’s Upper Street dominates much of Islington’s area, naturally, but the new restaurants appearing around the edges or taking over familiar spaces with innovative cooking is where Islington really shines.
